Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
